A scooter is the practical way to see Ayutthaya. The old capital's temple ruins are scattered across an island of about four kilometres by three, with more sites strung out beyond the rivers on every side, and the gaps between them are just far enough to be miserable on foot in the heat and just short enough to make a hired car feel absurd. Bicycles work for the fit and the early-rising; a scooter works for everyone else.
The paperwork, the deposit and the damage question are the same here as anywhere in Thailand and are covered in renting a motorbike in Thailand. What is different about Ayutthaya is the terrain, which is as flat as anywhere you will ride in this country, and the layout — an island town wrapped by three rivers, with a small ferry rather than a bridge as the shortest way across one of them.
- Typical daily rateRoughly 200–300 baht for a 125cc automatic; little seasonal swing
- TerrainCompletely flat. No hills at all
- Best vehicleThe smallest automatic available; a bicycle in the cool season
- Main hazardHeat, tour coaches and pedestrians at temple entrances
Where to rent
Two clusters. The first is on the east bank around the railway station, where several small shops and guesthouses rent bikes to visitors arriving by train from Bangkok. The second is on the island itself, in the guesthouse quarter around Naresuan Road and the sois off it, which is where most independent travellers stay and where the highest concentration of rental signs is. Guesthouses in both areas rent bikes directly, often a handful kept in the forecourt.
These are small operations rather than the industrial rental districts of Phuket or Samui, and damage disputes are reported far less often here — but the same two rules apply. Offer a cash deposit and a photocopy rather than your passport (why), and film a slow walk-round before you ride off (how). If you rented through a guesthouse, be clear who actually owns the bike: hotel desks or street shops.
The island, the rivers and the ferry
Ayutthaya's historic centre sits on an artificial island formed by the Chao Phraya, the Lopburi and the Pa Sak rivers. Bridges carry the main roads on and off it, but there is also a small passenger ferry across the Pa Sak between the Chao Phrom market area and the east bank near the railway station. It carries people and motorbikes; it does not carry cars.
That ferry is genuinely useful. If you are staying near the station, or you have hired a bike on the island and want the sites out to the east, the crossing saves a substantial detour via the bridges. It is one of the few places in Thailand where a scooter gets you somewhere a hire car simply cannot.
Ride the island anticlockwise, early. The main cluster — Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phra Si Sanphet and the Viharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit — sits in the middle of the island and is at its worst between about ten and three, when the coaches arrive and the heat peaks. Start at seven, do the central group, cross the river or ride out to Wat Chaiwatthanaram for late afternoon, and skip the middle of the day entirely.
Riding in the town
Ayutthaya is flat, the traffic is moderate, and the road surfaces are generally good. It is one of the gentler places in Thailand to be on a scooter — but there are three local quirks.
The first is the coach traffic. Ayutthaya is a day trip from Bangkok, and the temple car parks and their approach roads fill with tour coaches and minibuses that stop, reverse and turn where they can rather than where they should. Give them a very wide berth; see buses and coaches on Thai roads.
The second is pedestrians: visitors step off kerbs backwards while framing a photograph, all day, everywhere. Ride the temple approach roads at walking pace.
The third is the one-way system and the narrow lanes around the central ruins, not always well signed. Follow the traffic and the painted arrows rather than your map app's confidence — see one-way streets, sois and how Thai towns are laid out.
Beyond the island
Ayutthaya rewards a bike most once you leave the central cluster. Wat Chaiwatthanaram sits across the river to the west and is the best sunset site in the province. Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon and Wat Phanan Choeng are to the south-east. Bang Pa-In Palace is around 20 kilometres south, an easy half-hour on quiet roads, and is awkward to reach any other way. Wat Maheyong and the elephant kraal are north-east.
All of it is flat, and none of it is far. The limiting factor is the sun, not the bike. There is very little shade at any of these sites, the ruins radiate heat, and visitors on scooters routinely underestimate how quickly they dehydrate — sunburn and dehydration on a motorbike in Thailand is worth two minutes before you set off with a small bottle of water and no hat.
Level crossings. The main southern railway runs along the east side of the town and there are crossings on several of the roads out. Many Thai level crossings are unmanned and some have no barrier. Slow down, look both ways and do not rely on lights or bells. See level crossings in Thailand.
Should you ride here from Bangkok?
Some people do. It is around 80 kilometres, and the direct route runs up Highway 1 and Highway 32 — wide, fast, multi-lane roads carrying heavy lorry traffic between Bangkok and the north. On a rented 125 it is a long, hot, exposed ride with nothing to see, and most rental agreements in Bangkok will not cover it anyway.
The sensible pattern is the one most visitors use without thinking about it: take the train or a minivan from Bangkok, rent the scooter when you arrive, and hand it back before you leave. A day return by rail from Hua Lamphong is cheap and the station is on the doorstep of one of the rental clusters.
Prices and seasons
Ayutthaya barely has a rental season. Rates hold at roughly 200–300 baht a day (about £4.50–£7 / US$6–US$9) for a 125cc automatic all year, with a modest lift over Songkran and New Year — the only two weeks worth booking ahead.
What does vary is comfort. March to May is punishingly hot on an unshaded ruin site; the wet season from June to October brings heavy afternoon rain and some localised flooding on the low-lying roads near the rivers — see the rainy season and flooded roads. November to February is the good window and is also the only time a bicycle is a realistic alternative to a bike, which some visitors prefer; see renting a bicycle in Thailand.
Frequently asked questions
Is Ayutthaya flat?
Entirely. It sits on the central plain and there is no hill anywhere in the historic area. Any rental scooter will handle it, and this is one of the easier places in Thailand to ride for the first time.
Where do I rent a scooter in Ayutthaya?
Around the railway station on the east bank, and in the guesthouse area on Naresuan Road on the island. Guesthouses in both areas rent bikes directly.
Can I take a scooter on the little ferry?
Yes. The small ferry across the Pa Sak between the Chao Phrom market area and the station side carries motorbikes as well as pedestrians. Cars have to use the bridges.
Should I ride from Bangkok instead of renting locally?
No. It is 80 kilometres of fast lorry-heavy highway with nothing to look at, and most Bangkok rental agreements would not cover it. Take the train and rent when you arrive.
Scooter or bicycle for the ruins?
Bicycle if you are here in the cool months and staying on the island; scooter if you want Bang Pa-In, Wat Chaiwatthanaram and the outlying sites in the same day, or if it is April.
Do I need to worry about police checks here?
Ayutthaya is no different from anywhere else — checks happen, most often on the main roads in and out. See police checkpoints in Thailand and which licence you can use.